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The Big Horn Mountains

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  Wherein Moominmama discovers the glories of the Bighorn National Forest and has it mostly to herself... The Bighorn Mountains turn out to be a national gem, largely unrecognized outside this area of Wyoming. There's enough beauty and history here to make it a national park -- but then crowds would come, and Moominmama wouldn't feel like she had it to herself! It's an area about 150 miles long and 30 miles wide with the Cloud Peak Wilderness in its center, a set of snowy peaks centered around the 13,000-foot Cloud Peak holding the range's last surviving Pleistocene glacier. This whole area has been a holy place for dozens of Native American tribes, and the Medicine Wheel, at almost 10,000 feet of elevation, is a place of pilgrimage to this day. These stones are believed to have been laid in the pattern at left at least 250 years ago.  When Moominmama arrived at the trailhead, she was met by two young Crow women working for the Forest Service, asked to treat the ground ...

Moominmama and the Pony Express

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  Wherein Moominmama watches Rick and Lola ride off with the Pony Express mailbag and enjoys learning the history of Casper, Wyoming... Hee-yah! Moominmama arrived in Casper, Wyoming just in time to catch the annual re-enactment of the Pony Express as it made its way from Missouri to California.  Turns out theses states and those in between each have National Pony Express Association chapters, and each year they coordinate a 10-day run of 1,966 miles between St. Joseph, Missouri and Sacramento, providing volunteer riders, horses and associated logistics. The Pony Express rides west in even years and east in odd years. While Moominmama has been to the Pony Express museum in Gothenburg, Nebraska, she'd never seen the mail delivery service in operation. Here's Rick and his horse Lola as they waited for their turn to ride. They've done this route before.  He, like the other riders, go a two-to-two-and-a-half-mile stretch (considerably shorter than the original riders would ha...

Black Canyon Part II, Return to Grand Junction

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In which Moominmama checks out the North Rim of the Black Canyon before returning to Grand Junction and the Colorado National Monument... Moominmama's stay near Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park confirmed her preference for being in canyons as opposed to on their rims. But my stay near the South Rim seemed incomplete if I didn't also visit the North Rim, the more rugged of the two sides. Unlike the more popular South Rim, the north side lacks the many fenced-in overlooks. A visit to Exclamation Point (great name) on the North Rim is an opportunity to stand at the very edge and look down, knowing a misstep could be fatal. Aside from this bit of thrill-seeking, Moominmama preferred the one twisty road that took her down to water's edge, where the Gunnison flows fast and cold -- no swimming but a bit of foot dangling permitted.  Moominmama also enjoyed watching the artistry of fly fishermen, with their ribbon-like casts over the water. Sitting on the rocky banks, I al...

Telluride and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison

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Wherein Moominmama enjoys more of the Colorado spring at high elevation... The rocky peaks of Telluride and the steep walls of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison are separated by a couple hours' drive, but they are formed by a similar process: a combination of tectonic uplift, volcanic activity and erosion.  While one can see the mountains of the Uncompahgre for miles, the Black Canyon is a geological feature that springs itself on you: a gorge with sheer cliffs over 2,700 feet deep. It narrows to as much as 40 feet at the bottom and 1,000 feet at the rim. You don't see it until you're at the edge.  One of the interesting features of the gorge is its striped cliff faces. Most of the rock here is metamorphic rock: a dark grey gneiss and schist, (why this is called the Black Canyon). But tectonic uplift pushed these 1.8 billion-year-old rocks over a volcanic hotspot and magma flowed up filling any cracks.  The magma then cooled over millions of years, allowing large crystals ...

The San Juan Mountains

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In which Moominmama rides the Durango-Silverton narrow-gauge railroad and hikes in the San Juan Mountains... Moominmama had signed up for a steam train excursion in Ely, Nevada last year only for the engine to break down the night before, replaced by a diesel.  Here in Durango, I had another shot at riding behind a steam engine, and I took it. This is a narrow-gauge railroad, where the tracks are closer together than a conventional track, allowing narrower trains to better navigate along ridges and steep turns. Of which there were a few! The trip from Durango to Silverton climbs almost 3,000 feet. Driving between the two towns takes just over an hour by car but 3.5 hours by rail because the train cuts tight between rock walls and the rushing river.  It's still a beautiful ride through the San Juan Mountains. By standing toward the back of the train and between two cars, I could lean out a bit (when it was safe) and see the cars snaking forward. When they say narrow here, they ...

Moominmama Communes with the Ancients

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  Wherein Moominmama visits sites of the Ancient Puebloans and learns more about archeoastronomy and the Chaco Culture... Chimney and Companion rocks in Colorado, near New Mexico, represent the northernmost site for what's believed to have been an ancient Chaco culture observatory. Every 18 and a half years, the moon rises directly between these two pillars during the Major Lunar Standstill, the point at which the moon rises at its northernmost position on the horizon. We are currently at the end of a Major Lunar Standstill, which lasts between two and three years, and the Griffith Observatory created this video in October of 2024 if you want to learn more. But here's a still from that video just to get a sense of what the moonrise looks like at this location. The moonrise appears to be the reason that the Chacoans chose this high ridge to build the meticulous structure of kiva and rooms you see remnants of in the photo at the top.  Most of the construction of the Chacoan Gre...

Abiquiu, New Mexico

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  In which Moominmama is charmed by the village of Abiquiu... At the center of Abiquiu is this adobe church, with signage in Spanish: Santo Tomas El Apostol. It dominates the town square, still dirt, with dirt roads that meander from the center. A church has been at this spot since at least 1776 though this is a relatively modern one, built in the late 1930s, on the same spot as the earlier churches. It remains part of the Diocese of Santa Fe, which owns other buildings here in town. Opposite the church is the town library, a former home dating back to the early 1800s. I might never have gotten to see this part of Abiquiu if I hadn't been looking for the library because this entire town center is off the beaten track. The library was once the home of a librarian's grandparents. She explained that it was ultimately sold to the church 27 years ago to be turned into the town's library and cultural center. The librarian's desk now stands by what was once the kitchen window!...