In which Moominmama explores the pleasures and indigenous history of Iowa and makes new friends... 

Moominmama has long admired Amish quilts, many of which rival the best of modern art in her view. 

I'm fascinated by the simple patterns and colors contrasted against the often ornate hand-stitching that hold the layers together. But I've only ever seen these quilts in photos.

So I jumped at the chance to visit the Kalona Historical Society museum and its Amish quilt display just south of Iowa City. I landed in Iowa City largely by chance, because it was the halfway point on my route to Minnesota -- and a campsite was available.

But I'm awfully glad I stopped here. This community is full of bike trails and cozy restaurants and opportunities to hike or get out on the water. Iowa City even has a jazz station!

At the quilt museum, I discovered I could tour the Kalona Historical Village where they had an installation detailing some of the indigenous history of the area.

Turns out I'm not the first to discover the pleasures of eastern Iowa. There is evidence that people lived here for at least 13,000 years. 

The French reported their first interactions with native people in the mid-to-late 1600s, when there were large permanent villages, extensive farming, hunting and fishing in the region. Living near the Mississippi, between the Iowa and Missouri rivers, were the Iowa, Meskwaki and Sauk people.

From 1820-1840, pressured by the U.S. government, the tribes were forced to cede lands in Iowa, Minnesota and Missouri. Most were relocated to a reservation on the Kansas-Nebraska border. Among the key battles was the Black Hawk War in 1832, when Sauk leader Black Hawk and others attempted unsuccessfully to reclaim land in western Illinois part of a disputed treaty.

By 1837, a delegation of Iowa tribal leaders traveled to Washington, D.C. and created this map showing some of the key features -- trails and villages -- of their territory, which covered more than 300,000 square miles between the Missouri River and Lake Michigan. Lewis & Clark weren't the only ones capable of drawing a map!

With the removal of the tribes, the government opened eastern Iowa to a flood of settlers, increasing Iowa's population from about 10,500 in 1836 to 192,000 in 1850 and an incredible 675,000 by 1860.

Per the museum, many Meskawaki people hid in rivers and streams, or returned quietly from the Nebraska reservation, maintaining good relations with the settlers in order to remain on their ancestral land. 

In 1857, they pooled their money and successfully petitioned the Iowa General Assembly to buy 80 acres along the Iowa River. The tribe remains there to this day and has a museum and cultural center in Tama, which I hope to visit next time.

Moominmama only scratched the surface of the indigenous history here. But the land is beautiful -- rolling hills, fertile fields and generous waterways. I can see why people would want to stay here.

Moominmama got a chance to venture out on one of those waterways, Lake Macbride, just above Iowa City with a new friend, Margot. 

She and her partner, Julie, had stopped to admire the Moominhouse as I was parked in the campground. We got to talking and hit it off. 

Then much to my delight, Margot offered the next day to take me out kayaking. We did a two-hour tour of this wonderful lake, talking and laughing the whole time. 

While I had plans to move on the next day, I am already looking forward to returning to Iowa City to learn more about the Meskwaki and hang out with Margot and Julie!

Here's Margot and I grinning like crazy after our kayak trip, right before the skies opened up with a torrential rain! 

And here's best wishes to Julie who will retire shortly and hopefully join us on our next outing!