The Oregon Coast

Wherein Moominmama goes beachcombing in Bandon, Oregon and hikes the Oregon Coast Trail...

The state of Oregon passed a brilliant law in 1967 that established a public easement along its entire seacoast from the Columbia River to the California border. This area is now dotted with state parks and conservation areas. Bandon beach, just below the Coquille River, is ideal for tidepool exploration at low tides because you can wander among the sea stacks and observe what's clinging to their sides or hiding at their bases.

The volcanic pillars further out provide nesting sites for birds, and offshore rocks serve as beaches for seals and sea lions to take the sun. Moominmama did her best to photograph a group of resting seals in the distance. Without a zoom lens, this is difficult.

So imagine my surprise and delight when I rounded a corner and saw a young seal on my bit of beach! Rather than approach, I crouched down. State law prohibits beachgoers from bothering the seals in any way. Signs at the base of the staircases say "Seal pups rest on shore. Do not disturb them!" 

This harbor seal was definitely alert to my presence and eventually turned around and slipped back into the water. But I felt lucky to have a moment in his or her presence. The bright orange and purple starfish and the green anemones made for other delightful discoveries on the shore.

Moominmama also took a day to hike a section of the Oregon Coast Trail from Sunset Bay, near Coos Bay, to Cape Arago just over 4 miles further south. This crosses Shore Acres State Park, which was once the estate of timber baron and shipbuilder Louis J. Simpson. He built a cliffside mansion along the coast for his wife, but that house burned and a replacement went to ruin after he went bankrupt in the wake of the Great Depression. 

The land was sold to the state in 1942, and it's become part of the coastal parks system, with a botanical garden where the home once stood and a private beach, Simpson beach, now open to the public. 

This protected cove of a beach is a gem, and I'm grateful to the Oregon Beach Bill of 1967 for preserving it for the public! So many of the East Coast beaches remains private property that I appreciate that Oregon has done things differently.

The Oregon Coast Trail, of which I hiked only a small part, moves through dense woodlands and onto grassy cliffs, providing intermittent views of the ocean below and a mix of sandstone and volcanic rock along the shoreline. 

It's windy and cool, often cloudy, with breakers that kick up spray offshore and leave me wondering if I've seen a whale. What I did see for sure were several snowy egrets, using their elegant necks and long legs to search for a meal in the rock pools.

Moominmama has also found some delicious meals here on the coast. Tony's Crab Shack in Bandon doesn't disappoint, and tomorrow I head south to Port Orford to sample the Crazy Norwegian's Fish and Chips at my brother's recommendation.

I've enjoyed Bandon's Fourth of July Parade and have a few days left for coastal hikes before I head inland to Portland to visit and camp with aforementioned brother, his wife and dogs. Looking forward to some socializing and hiking with companions!

I leave you with a photo from Bandon beach at low tide, when the Pacific Ocean briefly fools you by looking so calm!